Damnit, my Mom bailed a friend out who was about to lose her phone, so now I won't have money to buy tools until next week. How much does a multimeter run nowadays anyway?
DShiznit wrote:
Damnit, my Mom bailed a friend out who was about to lose her phone, so now I won't have money to buy tools until next week. How much does a multimeter run nowadays anyway?
Depends how fancy of a multimeter you get. I'd estimate anywhere in the $20-$100 range, although I'm not sure what you'd get in the $20 range.
Ok, I got a nice digital multimeter at Radioshack for $30. But the only wire I could buy in 30 awg was enamel-coated. Will that be insulated enough? Or will I need to rip cable from some old ps2 cords?
DShiznit wrote:
Ok, I got a nice digital multimeter at Radioshack for $30. But the only wire I could buy in 30 awg was enamel-coated. Will that be insulated enough? Or will I need to rip cable from some old ps2 cords?
That's fine, although not ideal. I believe that sandpaper or steel wool is de rigeur for stripping the enamel, although I worry about the precision. Nice job on the multimeter!
Stripping it was never a concern, I was more worried about it shorting.
DShiznit wrote:
Stripping it was never a concern, I was more worried about it shorting.
As long as you're careful to only strip the part that you solder, the enabled parts touching should be no problem, in my experience, even with regards to crosstalk.
How much resistance should I expect from a healthy ribbon connection?
DShiznit wrote:
How much resistance should I expect from a healthy ribbon connection?
Nominal is between 2 ohms and 5 ohms; up to 10 ohms might be OK. More than that and the trace needs replacement. Each 30 AWG wire-replaced trace displays <1 ohm, generally around 0.02 ohms.
sweet, I'll be sure to include that information in my essay when explaining how to detect and replace faulty traces.

I have a calc with missing lines, but the highest resistance I registered was 5-7 ohms. I'm thinking I should just replace every thread with more than 5 ohms, yes?
Missing lines is not a ribbon cable fault (at least not the coarse one). Are they missing rows or missing columns? Those are a fault with the much much finer ribbon cable joining the driver board to the LCD itself.
Oh. Sh!t. Missing rows. I take it that's a much much harder fix?
DShiznit wrote:
Oh. Sh!t. Missing rows. I take it that's a much much harder fix?
Almost impossible, actually. I've sometimes found that massaging the LCD ribbon cable where it meets both boards may temporarily help, but it's a hard problem. I'm actually in the same bind with a TI-86 I recently received.
So the only way to fix this would be to replace the screen?
DShiznit wrote:
So the only way to fix this would be to replace the screen?
Well, replacing the ribbon cable would do the trick if you had a replacement cable and the proper tools (heat gun? Not positive on that to replace it, but the easier method would be to swap the whole PCB/LCD module with one from a TI-83+ with a broken motherboard.
That's what I meant, just replace the whole PCB/LCD module
I have another question(sorry for the double post btw, but It felt wrong to just edit this in). I have one calculator with a clearly broken screen(very obvious severe impact damage and leaking) and no response from the link port when under USB power. Would a broken screen prevent the rest of the calc from working, and if so, is there a way I can verify the main-board is intact?
DShiznit wrote:
I have another question(sorry for the double post btw, but It felt wrong to just edit this in). I have one calculator with a clearly broken screen(very obvious severe impact damage and leaking) and no response from the link port when under USB power. Would a broken screen prevent the rest of the calc from working, and if so, is there a way I can verify the main-board is intact?
What do you mean "under USB power"? Even if you try to link to it via USB, you still need batteries in it; it can't power itself over USB. Is it therefore a TI-84+ or TI-84+SE calculator?
No, I mean using the USB power supply I made for TI-83+'s
DShiznit wrote:
No, I mean using the USB power supply I made for TI-83+'s
Ahhh, gotcha. And you're trying to use a SilverLink and TI Device Explorer to contact the calculator?
Was. I already gave up and took it apart for display, but I'm wondering if I jumped the gun.
  
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